🫐 Elder

Elder is a tough, native shrub with creamy scented flowers in early summer, and glossy purple-black berries in late summer, both good for the kitchen. It grows in sun or shade, in any soil, and is a magnet for wildlife.

Cultivated forms include Black Lace, with deep purple lacy leaves and pink flowers. Berries must be cooked, as raw they can cause upset stomachs.

Varieties to try

Sambucus nigra (native, heavy cropping)Black Lace (purple leaves, pink flowers)Haschberg (heavy fruiting)Sampo (dark berries)Golden Tower (yellow leaves)

Plant bare-root or pot-grown plants from November to March in almost any soil in sun or shade. Dig a hole, plant at the same depth as in the pot, firm and water in. Space 3 m apart as a hedge, or singly as a specimen.

Elder grows rapidly; cut back to 30 cm after planting to encourage a bushy habit. Hardwood cuttings taken in winter root readily.

Top tips

• Plant almost anywhere.
• Cut back after planting.
• Take hardwood cuttings.
• Allow space.

Prune in late winter, removing a third of the oldest stems to ground level, and shortening others, to keep plants vigorous and fruitful. Elder can be cut hard back and will regrow.

Water in the first year. Few problems: aphids on young shoots and elder leaf spot are the main ones. Elder spreads by seed, so remove unwanted seedlings.

Top tips

• Prune in late winter.
• Cut back old stems.
• Remove unwanted seedlings.
• Water in year 1.

Watch out for

AphidsLeaf spotBirds taking berriesSpreading by seed

Pick flower heads in May to June on a dry, sunny day when fully open and fragrant, shaking off insects. Pick berries in August to September when deep black and hang heavily; cut whole heads and strip with a fork.

Never eat berries raw; always cook. Remove all stalks, which are toxic. Leave some berries for birds.

Pick elderflowers on a dry, sunny morning when the flowers are a creamy colour and smell sweet, not musty, and shake them to remove insects, but do not wash them, as this removes the pollen that carries the flavour. Use within a few hours of picking for the best cordial.

Top tips

• Pick flowers on a dry day.
• Strip berries with a fork.
• Always cook berries.
• Leave some for birds.

Make elderflower cordial, champagne, fritters, or infuse in gooseberry jam. Cook berries for syrup, jelly, wine, chutney and pies; elderberry syrup is a traditional winter remedy. Combine with blackberries and apple.

Cordial keeps 6 months in sterilised bottles, or freeze it. Berries freeze whole. Dry berries for tea.

Elderflower cordial is made by steeping about 20 flower heads with sliced lemons, sugar and citric acid in boiling water for 24 hours, then straining and bottling. Elderberry syrup, simmered with sugar and a few cloves, is a classic winter cordial that can also be frozen.

Top tips

• Freeze cordial.
• Strip stalks from berries.
• Cook berries first.
• Add to blackberry jam.